Note: a newer version of the manual was provided late in production, after this section was completed. It can be found here.

Challenger - Section #1 The assembly of your Challenger kit will be "tail first." This is done to allow you the opportunity toget a feel for working with the Superflite SF-104 polyester fabric with its tight weave.Using heavier fabric requires extreme care when shrinking to avoid distorting airframe members. It will not offer as fine a finish and adds weight as well. Tips and shortcuts, when applicable, have been supplied with these instructions to help minimize your assembly time and assist you in achieving a professional finished appearance. Reference photos have been added for additional detail. Additional finishing and painting tips are in the Superflite manuals for System I (Manual UC-104) or System II (Manual UD-104) NOTE: Use Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK) as cleaner and thinner. U500 adhesive will require thinning 50/50 with MEK Polytak will require only 25% thinning with MEK you will still need to thin further per instructions in this manual Information from Don Zank indicates that heavy application of unthinned adhesive works just as well and doesn't require the additional step of applying a second coat before fitting fabric sock. OBJECTIVE IN SECTION ONE: Upon completion of section #1 the tail surfaces (rudder, elevators, horizontal stabilizers and vertical fin) will be finished with of the tail surface hardware installed. Refer to the appropriate Superflite System Procedure Manual (supplied) for whichever finishing system you have selected (System I or System II). Manual UC-104 is for System I and Manual UD-104 is for System II. Step #1 If you choose to drill hinge locations before covering, simply clamp the hinges in their proper locations and drill holes for 3/16" rivets. After covering , clear holes with x-acto knife and rivet hinges with 3/16" rivets provided. Easier and saves time. Select the rudder frame from kit. (Figure #1) Check the pre-drilled holes and ends of aluminum tubing for burrs that may exist. If any sharp edges or burrs are present, remove with a metal file. Also file edges of gussetts where they will contact the fabric. Use medium grit sandpaper to lightly sand the entire perimeter of aluminum tubing making up the rudder structure. It is recommended the surface then be cleaned with solvent such as acetone or MEK to remove sanding residue. This will insure a good bond for the adhesive. Apply masking tape (or sport tape) to all sharp edges of gussets to prevent fabric envelope from being snagged or torn when slipped on. (Figure #2) Note: Only use as much as necessary to cover the leading edge gussets. This is where the glue must meet the aluminum. Do not cover up any more aluminum with tape than necessary since the adhesive will not adhere to masking tape as well as to aluminum. Use a soft brush to apply a coat of adhesive to the entire outside perimeter of the tubing and the cross tube. (Figure #1). Apply a second coat to the rudder leading edge tube. Let the adhesive dry 5 or 10 minutes before continuing. Note from Don Zank. One coat of adhesive will do if it is not thinned. Apply only to the edge where the fabric will be folded over. The coating applied to the fabric after shrinking is also an adhesive and will bond all other edges at that time. Do not apply adhesive to the cross members. This will cause the fabric to stick to them and they will be obvious even after the finish paint has been applied. Instead, cut a piece of polyester quilt batting the length of the cross tube and about twice the circumferance of the tube. After dabbing a little glue on the cross member, wrap the batting around it leaving the raw edges trailing out to one side. The fabric will then float over the metal tubes and give a smooth, attractive final finish.